The Scoop On Cleaning Up After Dogs
According to a recent survey by Merial Limited, when it comes to scooping the poop, many Americans feel their pet-owning neighbors deserve to be in the dog house-and with good reason. Neglecting to remove dog waste increases health threats at parks, playgrounds and even backyards. Parasites, such as hookworms and roundworms, may be found in animal waste and may be transmitted to other dogs and to people. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) reports 10,000 human cases of roundworm infection annually.
“Many pet owners are unaware that intestinal roundworms and hookworms pose serious health threats to their pets, as well as to the human family members,” said Dr. Peter M. Schantz, Epidemiologist, Division of Parasitic Diseases, Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.
Dr. Michael Rubinstein, clinic director of the Humane Society of New York, added, “It’s important to pick up after your pet and ensure that your dog is not the source of a parasitic infection. Ask your veterinarian about a once-monthly heartworm preventive, which in addition to preventing heartworm will treat and control intestinal parasites.”
A national survey of both dog owners and non-dog owners found:
• Nearly 38 percent of dog owners never scoop up after their pets.
• Ninety-one percent of pet owners let their dogs “take care of business” in their own yards. A third of that group sometimes or never cleans up after their dogs in their own yard.
• Eighty percent of dog owners don’t know dog waste poses a human health threat.
Roundworm eggs can remain viable in soil for years. As a result, anyone who comes in contact with the soil can also come in contact with infected eggs. Children who play at the park or in the back-yard and then put their hands in their mouth are susceptible to infection.
“The best strategy for control begins with keeping your pet healthy,” says Dr. Rubinstein. He offers the following tips:
• Always pick up after your pet to minimize the chance of spreading infection.
• Clean up properly after pets, especially around the home and lawn. Use tools and avoid direct contact with pets’ waste. Wash hands immediately after.
• If you have a sandbox in your backyard, keep it covered to prevent animals from using it as a litter box.
• Carry towelettes to wipe children’s hands frequently after playing in a park, public sandbox and the like.
• Ask your veterinarian about Heartgard
Her Dog Shows Two Different Types Of Aggression
Dear Adam:
I am writing about our dog Rudy, a three year old goldie mix that we adopted five months ago from a shelter. We have received different opinions on his mix. Some have said goldie/shepherd, some have said goldie/chow. The latter is the opinion of the [local dog training academy], where he is presently enrolled in their one-month board and train program. We enrolled him because one month ago he attacked a jogger. The jogger was running by my husband, who had Rudy in a sit on a slack leash. The jogger changed direction quickly, running straight toward Derek and Rudy. Rudy lunged at the jogger, jumped up on him, barking and growling aggressively.
He tore the man’s jacket by nipping at it, but he did not bite the jogger.
[You weren't paying attention to your dog. If you were, you'd have already been running the other direction to execute the "attention getter" drill as outlined in the book. -Editor]
The only other time he had displayed such aggressive behavior was toward a UPS driver coming up the driveway, but he was well under control that time.
He has a very strong prey drive and dominant personality. He had been doing very well these past three weeks at the Academy. They were not able to elicit any aggressive behavior from him, and his obedience training was going well. But last Thursday, he bit a trainer. He apparently was being put back into his kennel and ran off down a long hallway. He was not leashed. When he got to the dead end, he first went submissive, rolling over on his back. The trainer then reached to grab his collar and Rudy gave her hand a good bite. She then reached for the collar with her other hand, and he did the same to that hand. He did not give her any warning growl or snap. He did not move forward toward her, just reacted to her reach toward him. After the second bite she backed off, and another trainer was able to coax Rudy to go back with her uneventfully.
I have read your book and believe that the trainer bite was an example of fear aggression? (I don’t know what to think about the jogger, though.) The Academy seems to be saying that they can’t train that reaction out of him; that we will just need to be vigilant and mindful of his triggers. That goes without saying, and I now believe that being cornered is one of his triggers. (Our vet had also mentioned that when they cornered him to get him on a table, that he had snapped out at them.) But your book and tapes led me to believe that you can train such behavior out of a dog. Or am I misunderstanding? Are you merely just getting the dog to react to you instead of following his instinctual reaction? Certainly that’s a good thing, but what if he’s with someone else when he’s triggered?
We need some perspective on this situation. I love him and want to give him every chance to learn correct behaviors. But on the other hand, we live in a dense children and jogger packed neighborhood. We can’t keep him if there is reasonable risk of this kind of thing happening again.
Mary Ellen
Dear Mary Ellen:
Thank you for the e-mail.
You’ve got a couple of things to consider:
1. The dog needs to be firmly corrected lunging. Going after the biker is a prey-based aggression. Correct him for this, as described in the book.
2. Going after the trainer and the veterinarian is the result of the dog being insecure and not trusting the handler. Usually in these types of cases, he will not bite if he is secure that you will not hurt him. Or if he knows that he will only be fairly corrected for behavior that he understands.
With aggressive behavior, we can never say 100% “All” or “Never” that your dog will or will not show a specific behavior.
Regardless, your dog needs to be corrected for such behavior, and then shown that if he is calm, he gets praise and nothing bad happens to him. This can sometimes be achieved by placing the dog in such positions while he is wearing a muzzle. He cannot bite you, and ultimately learns that everything ends up “A-Okay.”
It is a process of deconditioning. Not so for the prey-aggression, which can be fixed with a couple of well-timed and motivational corrections.
That’s all for now, folks!
I am writing about our dog Rudy, a three year old goldie mix that we adopted five months ago from a shelter. We have received different opinions on his mix. Some have said goldie/shepherd, some have said goldie/chow. The latter is the opinion of the [local dog training academy], where he is presently enrolled in their one-month board and train program. We enrolled him because one month ago he attacked a jogger. The jogger was running by my husband, who had Rudy in a sit on a slack leash. The jogger changed direction quickly, running straight toward Derek and Rudy. Rudy lunged at the jogger, jumped up on him, barking and growling aggressively.
He tore the man’s jacket by nipping at it, but he did not bite the jogger.
[You weren't paying attention to your dog. If you were, you'd have already been running the other direction to execute the "attention getter" drill as outlined in the book. -Editor]
The only other time he had displayed such aggressive behavior was toward a UPS driver coming up the driveway, but he was well under control that time.
He has a very strong prey drive and dominant personality. He had been doing very well these past three weeks at the Academy. They were not able to elicit any aggressive behavior from him, and his obedience training was going well. But last Thursday, he bit a trainer. He apparently was being put back into his kennel and ran off down a long hallway. He was not leashed. When he got to the dead end, he first went submissive, rolling over on his back. The trainer then reached to grab his collar and Rudy gave her hand a good bite. She then reached for the collar with her other hand, and he did the same to that hand. He did not give her any warning growl or snap. He did not move forward toward her, just reacted to her reach toward him. After the second bite she backed off, and another trainer was able to coax Rudy to go back with her uneventfully.
I have read your book and believe that the trainer bite was an example of fear aggression? (I don’t know what to think about the jogger, though.) The Academy seems to be saying that they can’t train that reaction out of him; that we will just need to be vigilant and mindful of his triggers. That goes without saying, and I now believe that being cornered is one of his triggers. (Our vet had also mentioned that when they cornered him to get him on a table, that he had snapped out at them.) But your book and tapes led me to believe that you can train such behavior out of a dog. Or am I misunderstanding? Are you merely just getting the dog to react to you instead of following his instinctual reaction? Certainly that’s a good thing, but what if he’s with someone else when he’s triggered?
We need some perspective on this situation. I love him and want to give him every chance to learn correct behaviors. But on the other hand, we live in a dense children and jogger packed neighborhood. We can’t keep him if there is reasonable risk of this kind of thing happening again.
Mary Ellen
Dear Mary Ellen:
Thank you for the e-mail.
You’ve got a couple of things to consider:
1. The dog needs to be firmly corrected lunging. Going after the biker is a prey-based aggression. Correct him for this, as described in the book.
2. Going after the trainer and the veterinarian is the result of the dog being insecure and not trusting the handler. Usually in these types of cases, he will not bite if he is secure that you will not hurt him. Or if he knows that he will only be fairly corrected for behavior that he understands.
With aggressive behavior, we can never say 100% “All” or “Never” that your dog will or will not show a specific behavior.
Regardless, your dog needs to be corrected for such behavior, and then shown that if he is calm, he gets praise and nothing bad happens to him. This can sometimes be achieved by placing the dog in such positions while he is wearing a muzzle. He cannot bite you, and ultimately learns that everything ends up “A-Okay.”
It is a process of deconditioning. Not so for the prey-aggression, which can be fixed with a couple of well-timed and motivational corrections.
That’s all for now, folks!
Do Pets And Apartments Mix
If you’re a pet owner who is considering a move to an apartment there are certain things you must be keep in mind. First, whether or not your pet will be accepted by most landlords depends primarily on the type, size and personality of your pet.
Dogs:
If you own a large dog, apartment living is probably not for you. Not only will accepting landlords be hard to find, but your dog will not be happy in the confined space of an apartment. A large dog needs room to exercise and play, neither of which is usually available in an apartment setting.
If you plan to move to an apartment, make sure your dog is one that will adapt easily to this change in environment. Usually smaller, lap dogs are the best choice. However, even smaller dogs can cause problems.
If your dog barks or whines a lot you may well find yourself at odds with the landlord, as well as with other tenants. Many times your dog only causes a disturbance because it’s lonely or bored. If you’re gone during the day, you can sometimes alleviate these problems by hiring a pet walker to come in and give your dog attention and exercise.
You must also keep in mind that most apartment complexes have leash laws so you will have to accompany your dog each time it goes outside. Since most complexes don’t have areas where it’s safe for your dog to run free, this is as much a matter of your dog’s safety as it the protection of other tenants.
Cats:
Cats are the pets of choice for apartments. Most are not as socially oriented as dogs and are quite happy left on their own. As long as your cat has a nice spot to curl up and take a nap, space isn’t an issue. More than likely your pet is a house cat so frequent trips outside aren’t required.
But you must realize that some landlords do not accept cats any more willingly than they do dogs. Some have a strict “no pets” rule. If that’s the case, don’t consider renting there. If your pet is discovered you may be evicted and/or fined.
Other Pets:
“Pocket pets” such as fish, birds, and reptiles usually don’t pose a problem when it comes to renting. However, you should still check with your prospective landlord to make sure.
General Tips:
Landlords who do accept pets often require a pet deposit. This is intended to cover any damage your dog or cat does to the premises, as well as additional cleaning that may be necessary when you leave the apartment.
If you’re searching for apartments that accept pets, there are many places to go for help. You’ll find lots of websites and message boards dedicated to this subject. You can also enlist the help of a local realtor or relocation specialist who usually have lists of “pet-friendly” apartments. Just make sure you’re clear on the policy regarding pets before you sign any rental agreement.
If you take into account your pet’s needs, as well as those of your landlord, you’ll be much more likely to find an apartment that meets your needs.
Happy apartment hunting!
Dogs:
If you own a large dog, apartment living is probably not for you. Not only will accepting landlords be hard to find, but your dog will not be happy in the confined space of an apartment. A large dog needs room to exercise and play, neither of which is usually available in an apartment setting.
If you plan to move to an apartment, make sure your dog is one that will adapt easily to this change in environment. Usually smaller, lap dogs are the best choice. However, even smaller dogs can cause problems.
If your dog barks or whines a lot you may well find yourself at odds with the landlord, as well as with other tenants. Many times your dog only causes a disturbance because it’s lonely or bored. If you’re gone during the day, you can sometimes alleviate these problems by hiring a pet walker to come in and give your dog attention and exercise.
You must also keep in mind that most apartment complexes have leash laws so you will have to accompany your dog each time it goes outside. Since most complexes don’t have areas where it’s safe for your dog to run free, this is as much a matter of your dog’s safety as it the protection of other tenants.
Cats:
Cats are the pets of choice for apartments. Most are not as socially oriented as dogs and are quite happy left on their own. As long as your cat has a nice spot to curl up and take a nap, space isn’t an issue. More than likely your pet is a house cat so frequent trips outside aren’t required.
But you must realize that some landlords do not accept cats any more willingly than they do dogs. Some have a strict “no pets” rule. If that’s the case, don’t consider renting there. If your pet is discovered you may be evicted and/or fined.
Other Pets:
“Pocket pets” such as fish, birds, and reptiles usually don’t pose a problem when it comes to renting. However, you should still check with your prospective landlord to make sure.
General Tips:
Landlords who do accept pets often require a pet deposit. This is intended to cover any damage your dog or cat does to the premises, as well as additional cleaning that may be necessary when you leave the apartment.
If you’re searching for apartments that accept pets, there are many places to go for help. You’ll find lots of websites and message boards dedicated to this subject. You can also enlist the help of a local realtor or relocation specialist who usually have lists of “pet-friendly” apartments. Just make sure you’re clear on the policy regarding pets before you sign any rental agreement.
If you take into account your pet’s needs, as well as those of your landlord, you’ll be much more likely to find an apartment that meets your needs.
Happy apartment hunting!
The West Highland White Terrier
So you have decided you are going to buy a West Highland white terrier, otherwise known as a Westie. Westies are great little light-hearted dogs. They are quick to learn, and as a rule they are very self sufficient, and have wonderful, unique personalities. Most Westie owners will tell you that their dog possesses a “big personality.” They are lovable, but will never be mistaken for a lap dog.
If you are looking for a cuddly lap dog, a Westie may not be the right breed for you. They are notoriously independent, and won’t tolerate being held for very long periods. They like to be in close proximity to their owner/families, but they need their space. As a rule, when a Westie chooses a sleeping area they will find a private space. Away from the family, this sleeping area will most likely be somewhat protected on three sides; they also like to “cover their backs” when they sleep. Naturally there are exceptions to the rule. If the dog is taught to be a bit of a lap dog, they will most likely be a lap dog. But the Westie is not a natural lap dog. They like to call the shots, so to speak.
The Westie likes to be taken along with the family whenever possible. They are friendly, and love people in general, especially children. They are very loyal to their families and prefer being with their owners/families whenever possible.
When purchasing a dog most people prefer to buy a young puppy, and train the dog themselves. This can be rewarding. If buying a puppy, make sure you are home regularly enough to train the puppy properly. Westies are easy to train, but someone has to be in the home to do the training. Remember, it can be a frustrating and time consuming task to train a puppy. The other option is to purchase a dog that is a bit older, and has already been trained by the breeder. This is a good option, and many breeders can accommodate with a dog that is a little older and trained.
Male or female? In regard to temperament, there is little or no difference between the two in the Westie breed. It is said that Westie males are more affectionate than female Westies. The female is smaller and lighter, so easier to control on a walk or carry when necessary.
This pure white, sturdy small-framed dog is always full of energy and always on the alert and looking for fun. They love to get out and walk, and run in a wooded area, looking for game.
Westies’ ears stand up naturally at each side of their fluffy, happy face. At the opposite end, a perky short tail, which – by nature’s design – comes to a gradual point. As adults, it is desirable for the male Westie to be 11 inches in height; the female 10 inches in height. A Westies coat should be pure white. They have a double coat; the under coat being soft and fluffy, the top coat a bit coarse and wiry. This dual coat is natural to the Westie. The breed was developed and bread for a hard and dangerous job – that of hunting out and killing vermin. So the dual coat provides the Westie a good natural form of protection, not only from the elements, but the claws and teeth of its prey. The dry texture of the Westies coat also works to cut down on doggy odor. Due to this dryer coat they require less baths. They can be kept clean with frequent brushing and dry cleaning (this is done by adding a bit of corn starch to the dogs coat, brushing it out after a few minutes.)
Choosing a reputable breeder is very important. It is impossible to know when picking out your particular puppy just how that dog will turn out emotionally and physically. This is the best reason to find a good reputable breeder. A good breeder strives to breed healthy dogs that will exhibit traits that are natural to the dog they chose to breed. There are three choices when it comes to breeders; pet shop breeders, back yard breeders, and serious hobby breeders.
The pet shop breeder is the worst possible choice you can make when buying a dog. The puppies are poorly bred, and are thought of as merchandise to be sold for at a high profit. This form of breeding as a rule puts out sickly, unstable dogs, and I highly recommend you stay clear of pet shop breeders.
The backyard breeder can also be a poor choice. This type of breeder may be a Westie owner that thought it would be “fun” to have puppies. They know little about puppies and the training of puppies. As a rule they are not well acquainted with the stud dogs, and can offer little information on his background. They are unaware of the history of the breed, and any special needs of a given breed. To sum it up, they are ill-equipped to breed dogs, and lack the knowledge one needs to be a good breeder.
Your best choice when buying a dog is to find a serious hobby breeder. They have done their homework on the breed they are selling. As a rule, they are dog fanciers and do not look at breeding as a profit-only venture. They are breeding for show dogs. They strive to breed the best of their chosen breed. They will take responsibility for any and all pups produced, and stand behind their dogs. You can be assured the dogs are healthy, and have been given all the veterinary care they need as puppies along with proper training. A good breeder of Westies will belong to the “West Highland White Terrier Club of America”, and/or other well known Westie Clubs. They will most likely be involved in showing their dogs. A good breeder will ask you questions, and be very discriminating on the homes their puppies go to. They will guarantee their puppies, with an agreement to take the puppy back if for some reason you find you are not compatible with your new puppy. They will give you time to have the puppy looked at by a veterinarian of your choice, just to ensure there are no health problems looming, and that the puppy is in a good healthy condition.
A good breeder will have numerous references. They will be able to provide you with such references, in the way of other persons that have purchased dogs from them, along with their own veterinarians references. The breeder should be able to answer questions on the breed, and show a good knowledge of the breeds history. The breeder should also provide written instructions in regard to the puppies needs. Diet, exercise, and health care needs as a puppy and adult dog. The kennels should be clean, providing the dogs with a healthy environment. The dogs should be comfortable with the breeder, and show a good rapport with them. The dogs in the kennels should be of good temperament, and healthy in appearance. The good breeder will never sell a puppy that is too young to leave its mother.
And finally, the breeder should provide you with a record of the dates and types of vaccinations and worming that has been done on your puppy, along with any and all records on visits to the vet the puppy may have required while in the breeder’s care. It is also desirable to ask questions on the health of the parent dogs. The breeder must provide you with A 3- to 5-generation pedigree, and a “blue slip” to apply for registration of the Westie into the AKA.
Once you have found a trustworthy breeder here are a few tips on choosing the right puppy: Age is important; a puppy is usually ready to be taken to its new home at the age of eight to twelve weeks. You may find that all Westie pups look alike; they pretty much do all look alike. Look for a puppy with a sturdy build. The dog should feel firm, with good muscle tone. Their legs should be straight. The pup should be active when picked up, squirmy, after a short time relaxing and willing to be petted and cuddled a bit. Their coats should be thick and clean. There should be no discharge from eyes, nose or ears, and no odor at the ears. The eyes should be bright, with an alert look. The gums should be moist and pink. The dog should be active with the other pups. It’s a good idea to ask the breeder about the puppies personality. They can help you pick a dog that will be suited to your needs and your personality.
It is always smart to observe the dam for her traits. Does she appear overly shy, aggressive, stand-offish. Is she patient and watchful of the puppies, and not overly aggressive of the liter? Do the parent dogs look in good health? Are their coats healthy and do they appear active with good stamina? It is well known puppies can and do inherit traits from the parent dogs.
If you do your homework, you are more likely to pick just the right dog. The Westie is a wonderful breed. They are bright, happy spirited dogs, and will bring with them their own special outgoing personality. They will fast become your best friend.
If you are looking for a cuddly lap dog, a Westie may not be the right breed for you. They are notoriously independent, and won’t tolerate being held for very long periods. They like to be in close proximity to their owner/families, but they need their space. As a rule, when a Westie chooses a sleeping area they will find a private space. Away from the family, this sleeping area will most likely be somewhat protected on three sides; they also like to “cover their backs” when they sleep. Naturally there are exceptions to the rule. If the dog is taught to be a bit of a lap dog, they will most likely be a lap dog. But the Westie is not a natural lap dog. They like to call the shots, so to speak.
The Westie likes to be taken along with the family whenever possible. They are friendly, and love people in general, especially children. They are very loyal to their families and prefer being with their owners/families whenever possible.
When purchasing a dog most people prefer to buy a young puppy, and train the dog themselves. This can be rewarding. If buying a puppy, make sure you are home regularly enough to train the puppy properly. Westies are easy to train, but someone has to be in the home to do the training. Remember, it can be a frustrating and time consuming task to train a puppy. The other option is to purchase a dog that is a bit older, and has already been trained by the breeder. This is a good option, and many breeders can accommodate with a dog that is a little older and trained.
Male or female? In regard to temperament, there is little or no difference between the two in the Westie breed. It is said that Westie males are more affectionate than female Westies. The female is smaller and lighter, so easier to control on a walk or carry when necessary.
This pure white, sturdy small-framed dog is always full of energy and always on the alert and looking for fun. They love to get out and walk, and run in a wooded area, looking for game.
Westies’ ears stand up naturally at each side of their fluffy, happy face. At the opposite end, a perky short tail, which – by nature’s design – comes to a gradual point. As adults, it is desirable for the male Westie to be 11 inches in height; the female 10 inches in height. A Westies coat should be pure white. They have a double coat; the under coat being soft and fluffy, the top coat a bit coarse and wiry. This dual coat is natural to the Westie. The breed was developed and bread for a hard and dangerous job – that of hunting out and killing vermin. So the dual coat provides the Westie a good natural form of protection, not only from the elements, but the claws and teeth of its prey. The dry texture of the Westies coat also works to cut down on doggy odor. Due to this dryer coat they require less baths. They can be kept clean with frequent brushing and dry cleaning (this is done by adding a bit of corn starch to the dogs coat, brushing it out after a few minutes.)
Choosing a reputable breeder is very important. It is impossible to know when picking out your particular puppy just how that dog will turn out emotionally and physically. This is the best reason to find a good reputable breeder. A good breeder strives to breed healthy dogs that will exhibit traits that are natural to the dog they chose to breed. There are three choices when it comes to breeders; pet shop breeders, back yard breeders, and serious hobby breeders.
The pet shop breeder is the worst possible choice you can make when buying a dog. The puppies are poorly bred, and are thought of as merchandise to be sold for at a high profit. This form of breeding as a rule puts out sickly, unstable dogs, and I highly recommend you stay clear of pet shop breeders.
The backyard breeder can also be a poor choice. This type of breeder may be a Westie owner that thought it would be “fun” to have puppies. They know little about puppies and the training of puppies. As a rule they are not well acquainted with the stud dogs, and can offer little information on his background. They are unaware of the history of the breed, and any special needs of a given breed. To sum it up, they are ill-equipped to breed dogs, and lack the knowledge one needs to be a good breeder.
Your best choice when buying a dog is to find a serious hobby breeder. They have done their homework on the breed they are selling. As a rule, they are dog fanciers and do not look at breeding as a profit-only venture. They are breeding for show dogs. They strive to breed the best of their chosen breed. They will take responsibility for any and all pups produced, and stand behind their dogs. You can be assured the dogs are healthy, and have been given all the veterinary care they need as puppies along with proper training. A good breeder of Westies will belong to the “West Highland White Terrier Club of America”, and/or other well known Westie Clubs. They will most likely be involved in showing their dogs. A good breeder will ask you questions, and be very discriminating on the homes their puppies go to. They will guarantee their puppies, with an agreement to take the puppy back if for some reason you find you are not compatible with your new puppy. They will give you time to have the puppy looked at by a veterinarian of your choice, just to ensure there are no health problems looming, and that the puppy is in a good healthy condition.
A good breeder will have numerous references. They will be able to provide you with such references, in the way of other persons that have purchased dogs from them, along with their own veterinarians references. The breeder should be able to answer questions on the breed, and show a good knowledge of the breeds history. The breeder should also provide written instructions in regard to the puppies needs. Diet, exercise, and health care needs as a puppy and adult dog. The kennels should be clean, providing the dogs with a healthy environment. The dogs should be comfortable with the breeder, and show a good rapport with them. The dogs in the kennels should be of good temperament, and healthy in appearance. The good breeder will never sell a puppy that is too young to leave its mother.
And finally, the breeder should provide you with a record of the dates and types of vaccinations and worming that has been done on your puppy, along with any and all records on visits to the vet the puppy may have required while in the breeder’s care. It is also desirable to ask questions on the health of the parent dogs. The breeder must provide you with A 3- to 5-generation pedigree, and a “blue slip” to apply for registration of the Westie into the AKA.
Once you have found a trustworthy breeder here are a few tips on choosing the right puppy: Age is important; a puppy is usually ready to be taken to its new home at the age of eight to twelve weeks. You may find that all Westie pups look alike; they pretty much do all look alike. Look for a puppy with a sturdy build. The dog should feel firm, with good muscle tone. Their legs should be straight. The pup should be active when picked up, squirmy, after a short time relaxing and willing to be petted and cuddled a bit. Their coats should be thick and clean. There should be no discharge from eyes, nose or ears, and no odor at the ears. The eyes should be bright, with an alert look. The gums should be moist and pink. The dog should be active with the other pups. It’s a good idea to ask the breeder about the puppies personality. They can help you pick a dog that will be suited to your needs and your personality.
It is always smart to observe the dam for her traits. Does she appear overly shy, aggressive, stand-offish. Is she patient and watchful of the puppies, and not overly aggressive of the liter? Do the parent dogs look in good health? Are their coats healthy and do they appear active with good stamina? It is well known puppies can and do inherit traits from the parent dogs.
If you do your homework, you are more likely to pick just the right dog. The Westie is a wonderful breed. They are bright, happy spirited dogs, and will bring with them their own special outgoing personality. They will fast become your best friend.
Dog Bites Increase In Summer Months Copied with permission from: http://plrplr.com/43827/dog-bites-increase-in-summer-months/
They’re called the “dog days of summer” for good reason. According to the Emergency Nurses Association, dog bites increase dramatically during the months of March through September.
Every year, 4.7 million Americans are bitten by dogs and 60 percent of those affected are children, with the most severe injuries occurring in children younger than 10 years old. That adds up to potentially 2.8 million scars on children each year from dog bites alone.
Being bitten by a dog can be a particularly traumatic event for anyone – especially for a child. While most dog-bite injuries are reported on the arms and hands, children seen in the emergency room for dog bites are more likely to have been bitten on the face, neck and head. In fact, children under 10 receive 65 percent of the reported dog bites to the face. Children are also 900 times as likely as letter carriers to be attacked by dogs.
Pediatrician-recommended Mederma for Kids is the first and only scar product created just for children to help reduce the appearance of scars. Mederma for Kids helps soften and smooth old and new scars resulting from cuts and scrapes, stitches, burns, bug bites and surgery.
Mederma for Kids has a unique color-changing feature – the gel goes on purple, and the color disappears as it is massaged into the scar. It also has a kid-friendly scent. Parents, too, can feel good about using Mederma for Kids because it has been proven safe for use in children as young as 2 and is non-toxic.
Every year, 4.7 million Americans are bitten by dogs and 60 percent of those affected are children, with the most severe injuries occurring in children younger than 10 years old. That adds up to potentially 2.8 million scars on children each year from dog bites alone.
Being bitten by a dog can be a particularly traumatic event for anyone – especially for a child. While most dog-bite injuries are reported on the arms and hands, children seen in the emergency room for dog bites are more likely to have been bitten on the face, neck and head. In fact, children under 10 receive 65 percent of the reported dog bites to the face. Children are also 900 times as likely as letter carriers to be attacked by dogs.
Pediatrician-recommended Mederma for Kids is the first and only scar product created just for children to help reduce the appearance of scars. Mederma for Kids helps soften and smooth old and new scars resulting from cuts and scrapes, stitches, burns, bug bites and surgery.
Mederma for Kids has a unique color-changing feature – the gel goes on purple, and the color disappears as it is massaged into the scar. It also has a kid-friendly scent. Parents, too, can feel good about using Mederma for Kids because it has been proven safe for use in children as young as 2 and is non-toxic.
A Look At Unique Pet Supplies For Dogs
If you have a pet, then you are undoubtedly in the market for pet supplies and plenty of them. If that’s the case, you are in luck because there is a world full of pet products just waiting to be purchased and a lot of eager pets waiting to try them out. We all know about pet beds and brushes, toys and other goodies, which is why this article is aimed at focusing on unique pet supplies and why they are important to your furry little friend.
A harness is often used to walk dogs that are strong or tend to pull their masters when walking. If you have a larger breed dog and he/she isn’t well mannered on a walk, this could end with you being in pain if the dog pulls frequently or changes direction without notice. Smaller dogs are easy to control, but larger dogs often need a harness. This is one of the best pet supplies in existence because it reduces pulling on both your dog and, in turn, your dog pulling on you. A harness is made of either fabric or leather, just as standard collars, and fits comfortably around the dogs legs and chest. While wearing a harness, the dog is prevented from pulling as hard and will result in less injury to it’s owner. Depending on the material and manufacturer, a dog harness can often be found for as little as $10.00 and will go up from there.
Did you know that one of the latest crazes in pet supplies is a seat belt? Well, it’s true. If you’re dog is known to wander around inside the vehicle, this may pose as a distraction and is not a safe situation. Therefore, some manufacturers have introduced a seat belt, which connects to the buckle of most automobiles and secures your dog safely in a seat.
If you are house training a new puppy or trying to retrain an adult dog, training pads may be the pet supplies that you have been looking for. These pads feature a scent that will draw your dog to it’s location when he/she has to use the bathroom. This always beats having to clean up a mess on the carpet and, even better yet, they are disposable.
Pet supplies are everywhere, including online and at most retail stores. Perhaps the largest variety of pet supplies is found on the world wide web simply because it has a wider reach than most local stores. Everything from beds to litter boxes and even sporty little outfits is available for your pup, including Halloween costumes.
A harness is often used to walk dogs that are strong or tend to pull their masters when walking. If you have a larger breed dog and he/she isn’t well mannered on a walk, this could end with you being in pain if the dog pulls frequently or changes direction without notice. Smaller dogs are easy to control, but larger dogs often need a harness. This is one of the best pet supplies in existence because it reduces pulling on both your dog and, in turn, your dog pulling on you. A harness is made of either fabric or leather, just as standard collars, and fits comfortably around the dogs legs and chest. While wearing a harness, the dog is prevented from pulling as hard and will result in less injury to it’s owner. Depending on the material and manufacturer, a dog harness can often be found for as little as $10.00 and will go up from there.
Did you know that one of the latest crazes in pet supplies is a seat belt? Well, it’s true. If you’re dog is known to wander around inside the vehicle, this may pose as a distraction and is not a safe situation. Therefore, some manufacturers have introduced a seat belt, which connects to the buckle of most automobiles and secures your dog safely in a seat.
If you are house training a new puppy or trying to retrain an adult dog, training pads may be the pet supplies that you have been looking for. These pads feature a scent that will draw your dog to it’s location when he/she has to use the bathroom. This always beats having to clean up a mess on the carpet and, even better yet, they are disposable.
Pet supplies are everywhere, including online and at most retail stores. Perhaps the largest variety of pet supplies is found on the world wide web simply because it has a wider reach than most local stores. Everything from beds to litter boxes and even sporty little outfits is available for your pup, including Halloween costumes.
Interesting Old Dog Tricks For Dog Owners Looking For Fun Laughter
The teaching and training of dog tricks while not a necessary part of a dog’s education, is an achievement that offer dog owners and his friends a great deal of amusement and adds materially to the value of a dog.
Training your dog tricks can be difficult and frustrating if you cannot achieve the results you want. However, unlike house and potty training which are vital education for any dog, I feel that the end-results is not the most significant element in trick training, to me the most important part is that both of you enjoy the training process and have fun along the way.
Listed in this article are 3 interesting dog tricks that you can teach your dog:
Dead Dog
Place a dog on his back or side or in any position you may select, threaten him with your forefinger and say “dead” or any word that you may select to associate with this trick, use both hands to help him stay in that position when you first begin training. Praise him and offer treats if he can stay in position.
With regular practice, he should be able to stay in the position in which you have placed him, it is only a question of practice when you can call to him and say “dead,” and he will lie down and stretch out in the position that you have accustomed him to taking.
Sneezing
With careful and patient training, most dogs can be taught to sneeze. This is accomplished by tickling the nose – with a feather. At first he will snap at it, and under normal circumstances, most dogs will start to sneeze; he will not like the feather very well and in course of time his imagination will foreshadow its effects and he will begin to sneeze as soon as it is pointed in close proximity to his nose. When he sneezes, use a command like “Sneeze”, to associate with this trick. As usual, praise and treat when he gets it right.
By repeating this operation at odd times the dog can be taught to sneeze very creditably when you point your finger at his nose and give him the word “Sneeze,” and finally will do so simply at command.
This trick can be fun and entertaining but not easily achievable especially with dominant dogs. If your dog get irritated and turn aggressive toward you when you tickle his nose, you should stop training immediately.
Bringing His Tail
During play, dogs frequently grasp their tails in their mouths. If you haven’t notice, if you take hold of your dog tail while playing with him, he will probably seize your hand, but if you skillfully slip his tail in his mouth he will grab it – Interesting!
These facts suggested the trick of “Bringing his tail.” It is a rather difficult feat to accomplish, but it is possible for any amateur to teach it to his dog providing the dog has a long enough tail and the trainer sufficient patience – Sorry to dog owners with short tails!
Anyway, this trick is very amusing, for when the dog has his tail in his mouth he can only advance crab-fashion or sideways, with a tendency to go around in a circle without making much advance.
The first step in teaching this trick is to praise the dog when he first gets his tail in his mouth, and after he has held it for a few moments bid him to let go and reward him.
Should he give up his hold before you order him to do so, speak sharply to him and begin all over again. When he learns to hold his tail until ordered to relinquish it the first part of the trick has been taught, and you can begin to teach him to bring it to you. To do this, step back a few feet from the dog in the direction he can most easily advance, and call him.
If he releases his hold of his tail to come to you, ignore him and replace the tail in his mouth again, but when he comes without letting go he should be rewarded gradually increase the distance you require him to carry his tail, but this task is so difficult that he should not be asked to go more than ten or twelve feet.
In beginning the trick, when you place his tail in his mouth say “Bring me your tail,” so as to accustom him to the command. In time you will not have to place his tail in his mouth, but merely hold it for him to grasp, and after still further practice he will seize it at the word without your assisting him.
Enjoy training your dog new tricks, and most importantly enjoy the process and have a great deal of fun and laughter!
Training your dog tricks can be difficult and frustrating if you cannot achieve the results you want. However, unlike house and potty training which are vital education for any dog, I feel that the end-results is not the most significant element in trick training, to me the most important part is that both of you enjoy the training process and have fun along the way.
Listed in this article are 3 interesting dog tricks that you can teach your dog:
Dead Dog
Place a dog on his back or side or in any position you may select, threaten him with your forefinger and say “dead” or any word that you may select to associate with this trick, use both hands to help him stay in that position when you first begin training. Praise him and offer treats if he can stay in position.
With regular practice, he should be able to stay in the position in which you have placed him, it is only a question of practice when you can call to him and say “dead,” and he will lie down and stretch out in the position that you have accustomed him to taking.
Sneezing
With careful and patient training, most dogs can be taught to sneeze. This is accomplished by tickling the nose – with a feather. At first he will snap at it, and under normal circumstances, most dogs will start to sneeze; he will not like the feather very well and in course of time his imagination will foreshadow its effects and he will begin to sneeze as soon as it is pointed in close proximity to his nose. When he sneezes, use a command like “Sneeze”, to associate with this trick. As usual, praise and treat when he gets it right.
By repeating this operation at odd times the dog can be taught to sneeze very creditably when you point your finger at his nose and give him the word “Sneeze,” and finally will do so simply at command.
This trick can be fun and entertaining but not easily achievable especially with dominant dogs. If your dog get irritated and turn aggressive toward you when you tickle his nose, you should stop training immediately.
Bringing His Tail
During play, dogs frequently grasp their tails in their mouths. If you haven’t notice, if you take hold of your dog tail while playing with him, he will probably seize your hand, but if you skillfully slip his tail in his mouth he will grab it – Interesting!
These facts suggested the trick of “Bringing his tail.” It is a rather difficult feat to accomplish, but it is possible for any amateur to teach it to his dog providing the dog has a long enough tail and the trainer sufficient patience – Sorry to dog owners with short tails!
Anyway, this trick is very amusing, for when the dog has his tail in his mouth he can only advance crab-fashion or sideways, with a tendency to go around in a circle without making much advance.
The first step in teaching this trick is to praise the dog when he first gets his tail in his mouth, and after he has held it for a few moments bid him to let go and reward him.
Should he give up his hold before you order him to do so, speak sharply to him and begin all over again. When he learns to hold his tail until ordered to relinquish it the first part of the trick has been taught, and you can begin to teach him to bring it to you. To do this, step back a few feet from the dog in the direction he can most easily advance, and call him.
If he releases his hold of his tail to come to you, ignore him and replace the tail in his mouth again, but when he comes without letting go he should be rewarded gradually increase the distance you require him to carry his tail, but this task is so difficult that he should not be asked to go more than ten or twelve feet.
In beginning the trick, when you place his tail in his mouth say “Bring me your tail,” so as to accustom him to the command. In time you will not have to place his tail in his mouth, but merely hold it for him to grasp, and after still further practice he will seize it at the word without your assisting him.
Enjoy training your dog new tricks, and most importantly enjoy the process and have a great deal of fun and laughter!
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