Looking After Your Dog Part One – Personalized Dog Collars
It is imperative that you purchase a personalized dog collar with an engraved metal plate, bearing the dog name and your contact number. This could save you a great deal of hassle if your dog were to go astray. If someone finds your wandering dog, he or she may contact you, thereby enabling an easy retrieval.
Most pet supplies stores don’t charge a great deal extra for a personalized dog collar. You simply need to choose a durable dog collar and then have your contact information engraved on a metal plate, with the plate being firmly fixed onto the collar. No matter what style or material you choose for the collar, it is highly essential that you go in for a personalized dog collar.
Earlier, dog owners used to make do with engraved rabies tags, which listed the contact info of the dog’s veterinarian. This practice could suffice if the wandering dog were found by a concerned citizen during the working hours of the vet. However, the vet’s office isn’t supposed to be open at all hours. Therefore, a personalized dog collar with the dog owner’s contact info is far better than the archaic method of using rabies tags.
Though not realized often, another significant advantage of a personalized dog collar is that your dog won’t experience extreme insecurity in case he does end up far from home. This is primarily because it will be comforted by people who call out his name, engraved on the personalized dog collar. Your dog won’t feel as if he has wandered into a completely unknown and hostile territory. This will pacify your dog until you bring it back home.
Some people are frequent movers and often change their dwelling place. During the chaotic and arduous task of moving away to a new home, pet owners typically forget to have a renewed collar, which bears the updated contact information. Such slip-ups might result in your dog being lost. You must ensure that you regularly update the contact info by ordering a new personalized dog collar.
Showing posts with label collar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label collar. Show all posts
How To Let Your Dog Enjoy Family Time
Dear Adam,
I adopted a 1 year-old female dog about a year ago. I have 2 cats who grew up with dogs and like dogs. When my dog first arrived, the first few days she was subdued– being in a new surrounding – but then she wanted to play rough with the cats… which didn’t set too well with them.
The cats run and she chases when we try to have them all in the same room together when watching TV, etc. I’ve been keeping them separate with baby gates (the dog in the kitchen and the cats in family room) and don’t let the dog over unless both cats are outside. The dog ends up spending too much time in the confines of the kitchen with this method.
Is there a way to teach her that we don’t want her rough-housing with the cats so they can all be together in the same room when I am present? The e-collar sounds good but so expensive. Maybe a less costly solution? Thanks. Enjoyed the book!
Willie Mae & DeAnne
Dear Willie Mae & DeAnne:
When the cats run, they are triggering your dog’s prey drive. This is instinctive. However, it is also natural for a dog to defer judgement to his pack leader.
What this means is that: You must act like the pack leader.
In other words, if you tell you dog to lay down, you must USE THE TECHNIQUES in the book (timing, consistency and motivation) to keep the dog in a down-stay.
I personally LOVE having cats around when I’m training. What could be better to proof your dog around?
Remember, your dog should stay down UNTIL you give him the “Take a break!” command. If he gets up to chase the cats, then you’ll need to correct him back into the down position.
If he gets up again, it’s a sure bet that your corrections lack motivation. (Correct more firmly. Make sure you’re getting slack in the line. If the dog’s body is moving when you correct him, then you’re using muscle instead of technique… not good!)
You don’t need an electronic collar. Just a $12 prong collar and a six foot leash.
Once you get your dog to hold a down-stay around cats using nothing more than proper timing, consistency and motivation, your friends will think you’re a genius. Or the lost love child of Sigmund and Roy.
Now if you can just get those darn cats trained!
That’s all for now, folks!
A Look At Diamond Dog Tags
Diamond dog tags are the cream of the crop, the best of the best, the most luxurious type of dog tag you can buy.
Diamond dog tags can cost up to $7500 or more. If you can afford such luxuries, a diamond dog tag is the perfect addition to your collection. Give your dog a diamond bone, heart, fire hydrant, or any of a limitless number of shapes and designs.
You can even buy dog-and-owner tag duos. Put one on your dog’s collar, and hang one as a pendant from your neck (or as a charm on your bracelet.)
A diamond dog tag deserves a great collar or necklace. You wouldn’t frame a masterpiece painting with cardboard, would you? The same principle applies to dog tags. Most retailers of diamond dog tags also carry luxury collars. Ask them about the selection. You can have diamonds on the collar (for maximum effect), rhinestones, crystals, sapphires, gold, silver, or any other precious stone. Perhaps a series of your dog’s birthstone would be the perfect touch.
Diamonds for dogs are about the same as diamonds for humans. They start at a few hundred dollars, and can go as high as tens of thousands of dollars, depending on size, cut, and supplier.
Where can you buy a diamond dog tag? There are many sources online. The award-winning pet accessories website animalstars.com is a great place to start. There you will find a wide selection of dog tags, and not only diamond, but also gold, silver, and pearl. You can even find cheap ones – great for use as a backup in case your diamond dog tag ever falls off your rambunctious pup.
Diamond dog tags can cost up to $7500 or more. If you can afford such luxuries, a diamond dog tag is the perfect addition to your collection. Give your dog a diamond bone, heart, fire hydrant, or any of a limitless number of shapes and designs.
You can even buy dog-and-owner tag duos. Put one on your dog’s collar, and hang one as a pendant from your neck (or as a charm on your bracelet.)
A diamond dog tag deserves a great collar or necklace. You wouldn’t frame a masterpiece painting with cardboard, would you? The same principle applies to dog tags. Most retailers of diamond dog tags also carry luxury collars. Ask them about the selection. You can have diamonds on the collar (for maximum effect), rhinestones, crystals, sapphires, gold, silver, or any other precious stone. Perhaps a series of your dog’s birthstone would be the perfect touch.
Diamonds for dogs are about the same as diamonds for humans. They start at a few hundred dollars, and can go as high as tens of thousands of dollars, depending on size, cut, and supplier.
Where can you buy a diamond dog tag? There are many sources online. The award-winning pet accessories website animalstars.com is a great place to start. There you will find a wide selection of dog tags, and not only diamond, but also gold, silver, and pearl. You can even find cheap ones – great for use as a backup in case your diamond dog tag ever falls off your rambunctious pup.
Going From The Pinch Collar To The Soft Collar
[Adam's replies denoted by '>>' within original question]
Dear Adam:
My pup is a 8 month-old male Labrador.
I have read your “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer.” I have also just finished 8 private lessons with a trainer using the pinch collar. My question is: With the pinch collar on the lab works well; put a soft collar he won’t work the same; if fact, he won’t even go in a down sometimes. So I didn’t really teach this dog anything; only that he feared a correction with a “pinch.” What’s your opinions, and I’m sure you’ve got them.
First, there should be NO FEAR associated with the pinch collar. I’m assuming that you’ve misunderstood some of the basic concepts or you just described it peculiarly in your e-mail.
As for your question, here’s what you’re missing: CONDITIONING YOUR DOG TO THE BEHAVIOR. So far, all you’ve done is taught your dog to UNDERSTAND the behavior. But you have not turned the behavior into a CONDITIONED RESPONSE. This is why – in my book – I advise you to give the COMMAND-CORRECTION-PRAISE (enforcing the behavior every time you give the command) for the first couple of months. ESPECIALLY if the dog is less than a year old.
DO NOT SWITCH TO THE SOFT COLLAR BEFORE THE DOG IS CONDITIONED. You will be undoing your progress and teaching the dog to be collar smart. (Please review the section in the book about not teaching your dog to be collar smart).
P.S. I thought your book was really good and have toyed with the idea of putting another $100 bucks for the videos. I do though disagree with your opinion on dog parks. I love taking my pup to the dog park and he loves going. Its a great way in the evening to get all the excess energy out and see them collapse for the night. It doesn’t seem to have anything to do with socialization, its just plain fun for them.
Karen
Junk food is fun, too. So is unprotected sex. And lawn darts. And small cars made by Koreans. And smoking dope in your mother-in-law’s bathtub. And wearing a yarmulke to your neighbor’s weekly Klan meeting. And going into a gift shop and asking THEM for your gift. (Alright, so I’m not only a JERK but I’m also a SICK JERK)
That’s all for now, folks!
Dear Adam:
My pup is a 8 month-old male Labrador.
I have read your “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer.” I have also just finished 8 private lessons with a trainer using the pinch collar. My question is: With the pinch collar on the lab works well; put a soft collar he won’t work the same; if fact, he won’t even go in a down sometimes. So I didn’t really teach this dog anything; only that he feared a correction with a “pinch.” What’s your opinions, and I’m sure you’ve got them.
First, there should be NO FEAR associated with the pinch collar. I’m assuming that you’ve misunderstood some of the basic concepts or you just described it peculiarly in your e-mail.
As for your question, here’s what you’re missing: CONDITIONING YOUR DOG TO THE BEHAVIOR. So far, all you’ve done is taught your dog to UNDERSTAND the behavior. But you have not turned the behavior into a CONDITIONED RESPONSE. This is why – in my book – I advise you to give the COMMAND-CORRECTION-PRAISE (enforcing the behavior every time you give the command) for the first couple of months. ESPECIALLY if the dog is less than a year old.
DO NOT SWITCH TO THE SOFT COLLAR BEFORE THE DOG IS CONDITIONED. You will be undoing your progress and teaching the dog to be collar smart. (Please review the section in the book about not teaching your dog to be collar smart).
P.S. I thought your book was really good and have toyed with the idea of putting another $100 bucks for the videos. I do though disagree with your opinion on dog parks. I love taking my pup to the dog park and he loves going. Its a great way in the evening to get all the excess energy out and see them collapse for the night. It doesn’t seem to have anything to do with socialization, its just plain fun for them.
Karen
Junk food is fun, too. So is unprotected sex. And lawn darts. And small cars made by Koreans. And smoking dope in your mother-in-law’s bathtub. And wearing a yarmulke to your neighbor’s weekly Klan meeting. And going into a gift shop and asking THEM for your gift. (Alright, so I’m not only a JERK but I’m also a SICK JERK)
That’s all for now, folks!
Different Dog Training Collars For Different Ways To Train Your Dog
Training collars are an effective way of developing your dog’s behaviour and obedience. There are three main types of dog training collar and each one should be used properly to get the results you want without harming your dog.
Slip Collars (Choke Chains)
Perhaps the most common dog training collar, a slip collar is designed to allow the trainer to quickly close and release the collar around a dog’s neck. Dogs learn to not repeat a behaviour when they feel the chain close.
A slip collar must be put on a dog properly, with the end coming from the lead around the back of the dog’s neck. This allows the chain to quickly slacken when released. When training, quickly tug then add slack to the lead whenever you need to correct behaviour.
The consequences of not using a slip collar properly can be disastrous. Do not pull too hard on the lead, just enough for your dog to take notice. Also, you should not keep pulling on the lead for an extended period.
Prong Collar (Pinch Collar)
Similar to a slip collar in design, prong collars have prongs on the inside of the collar. When the lead is tugged, the prongs pinch the dog’s neck. Unlike a slip collar, a prong collar has a limit to how much it will close around a dog’s neck.
Many owners are concerned about prong collars because of the impression that the prongs stab into the dog’s neck. In fact, a prong collar, with a limited circumference and by evenly spreading pressure all around a dog’s neck, is at least as safe as a slip collar.
E-collar (electronic collar)
An e-collar looks similar to a regular dog collar, but it is equipped with an electrical system that can deliver a sensation to the dog. Using a remote control device, a trainer can deliver a small charge through the e-collar whenever behaviour needs to be corrected.
An e-collar is an ideal way to train your dog off-leash. Incorrect behaviour is addressed immediately, so your dog quickly and easily learns the correct action, without needing a lead on which to tug.
In all cases, it is important to only use dog training collars only when training and while you are paying close attention to your dog. Leaving a training collar on when you are not working with your dog could lead to serious accidents. Each time you finish training, remove the training collar from your dog and replace it with the regular collar.
The dog training specialists at Alpha Paws can help you determine the best dog training collar for your needs.
Slip Collars (Choke Chains)
Perhaps the most common dog training collar, a slip collar is designed to allow the trainer to quickly close and release the collar around a dog’s neck. Dogs learn to not repeat a behaviour when they feel the chain close.
A slip collar must be put on a dog properly, with the end coming from the lead around the back of the dog’s neck. This allows the chain to quickly slacken when released. When training, quickly tug then add slack to the lead whenever you need to correct behaviour.
The consequences of not using a slip collar properly can be disastrous. Do not pull too hard on the lead, just enough for your dog to take notice. Also, you should not keep pulling on the lead for an extended period.
Prong Collar (Pinch Collar)
Similar to a slip collar in design, prong collars have prongs on the inside of the collar. When the lead is tugged, the prongs pinch the dog’s neck. Unlike a slip collar, a prong collar has a limit to how much it will close around a dog’s neck.
Many owners are concerned about prong collars because of the impression that the prongs stab into the dog’s neck. In fact, a prong collar, with a limited circumference and by evenly spreading pressure all around a dog’s neck, is at least as safe as a slip collar.
E-collar (electronic collar)
An e-collar looks similar to a regular dog collar, but it is equipped with an electrical system that can deliver a sensation to the dog. Using a remote control device, a trainer can deliver a small charge through the e-collar whenever behaviour needs to be corrected.
An e-collar is an ideal way to train your dog off-leash. Incorrect behaviour is addressed immediately, so your dog quickly and easily learns the correct action, without needing a lead on which to tug.
In all cases, it is important to only use dog training collars only when training and while you are paying close attention to your dog. Leaving a training collar on when you are not working with your dog could lead to serious accidents. Each time you finish training, remove the training collar from your dog and replace it with the regular collar.
The dog training specialists at Alpha Paws can help you determine the best dog training collar for your needs.
Learn The Strategies To Train Your Puppy To Accept The Collar And Lead
Walking on a collar and lead is an important skill that every dog must learn. Even the best trained dog should never be taken outside the home or yard without a sturdy collar and leash. Even if your dog is trained perfectly to go off lead, accidents and distractions do happen, and a collar, with proper identification attached, is the best way to be sure you will get your beloved companion back.
Of course before you can teach your new puppy to accept a leash, he or she must first learn to accept wearing a collar. The first step is to choose a collar that fits the dog properly. It is important to measure the puppy’s neck, and to choose a collar size accordingly.
After the collar has been put on the puppy, simply let him or her get used to it. It is not unusual for a puppy to try to pull on the collar, whine, roll or squirm when first introduced to a collar.
The best strategy is to simply ignore the puppy and let him or her get used to the collar. It is a mistake to either punish the dog for playing with the collar or to encourage the behavior. Distracting the puppy often helps, and playing with a favorite toy, or eating some favorite treats, can help the puppy quickly forget that he or she is wearing this strange piece of equipment.
After the dog has learned to accept the collar, try adding the leash. Hook the leash to the collar and simply sit and watch the puppy. Obviously, this should only be done either in the house or in a confined outdoor area. The puppy should be allowed to drag the leash around on its own, but of course the owner should keep a close eye on the puppy to ensure that the leash does not become snagged or hung up on anything.
At first, the leash should only be left on for a few minutes at a time. It is a good idea to attach the leash at mealtimes, playtime and other positive times in the life of the puppy.
That way the puppy will begin to associate the leash with good things and look forward to it. If the puppy shows a high degree of fear of the leash, it is a good idea to place it next to the food bowl for awhile to let him get used to it slowly. Eventually, he will come to understand that the leash is nothing to be afraid of.
After the puppy is comfortable with walking around the house wearing the leash, it is time for you to pick up the end of the leash for a few minutes. You should not try to walk the puppy on the leash; simply hold the end of the leash and follow the puppy around as he or she walks around. You should try to avoid situations where the leash becomes taut, and any pulling or straining on the leash should be avoided. It is fine for the puppy to sit down. Try a few games with the collar and lead.
For instance, back up and encourage the puppy to walk toward you. Don’t drag the puppy forward, simply encourage him to come to you. If he does, praise him profusely and reward him with a food treat or toy. You should always strive to make all the time spent on the leash as pleasant as possible.
It is important to give the puppy plenty of practice in getting used to walking on the leash in the home. It is best to do plenty of work in the home, since it is a safe environment with few distractions. After the puppy is comfortable walking indoors on a leash, it is time to start going outside, beginning of course in a small, enclosed area like a fenced yard.
After the puppy has mastered walking calmly outdoors on a leash, it is time to visit some places where there are more distractions. You may want to start with a place like a neighbor’s yard. Walking your new puppy around the neighborhood is a good way to introduce your neighbors to the new puppy, while giving the puppy valuable experience in avoiding distractions and focusing on his leash training.
Puppies sometimes develop bad habits with their leashes, such as biting or chewing on the leash. To discourage this type of behavior, try applying a little bit of bitter apple, Tabasco sauce or similar substance (just make sure the substance you use is not toxic to dogs). This strategy usually convinces puppies that chewing the leash is a bad idea.
Of course before you can teach your new puppy to accept a leash, he or she must first learn to accept wearing a collar. The first step is to choose a collar that fits the dog properly. It is important to measure the puppy’s neck, and to choose a collar size accordingly.
After the collar has been put on the puppy, simply let him or her get used to it. It is not unusual for a puppy to try to pull on the collar, whine, roll or squirm when first introduced to a collar.
The best strategy is to simply ignore the puppy and let him or her get used to the collar. It is a mistake to either punish the dog for playing with the collar or to encourage the behavior. Distracting the puppy often helps, and playing with a favorite toy, or eating some favorite treats, can help the puppy quickly forget that he or she is wearing this strange piece of equipment.
After the dog has learned to accept the collar, try adding the leash. Hook the leash to the collar and simply sit and watch the puppy. Obviously, this should only be done either in the house or in a confined outdoor area. The puppy should be allowed to drag the leash around on its own, but of course the owner should keep a close eye on the puppy to ensure that the leash does not become snagged or hung up on anything.
At first, the leash should only be left on for a few minutes at a time. It is a good idea to attach the leash at mealtimes, playtime and other positive times in the life of the puppy.
That way the puppy will begin to associate the leash with good things and look forward to it. If the puppy shows a high degree of fear of the leash, it is a good idea to place it next to the food bowl for awhile to let him get used to it slowly. Eventually, he will come to understand that the leash is nothing to be afraid of.
After the puppy is comfortable with walking around the house wearing the leash, it is time for you to pick up the end of the leash for a few minutes. You should not try to walk the puppy on the leash; simply hold the end of the leash and follow the puppy around as he or she walks around. You should try to avoid situations where the leash becomes taut, and any pulling or straining on the leash should be avoided. It is fine for the puppy to sit down. Try a few games with the collar and lead.
For instance, back up and encourage the puppy to walk toward you. Don’t drag the puppy forward, simply encourage him to come to you. If he does, praise him profusely and reward him with a food treat or toy. You should always strive to make all the time spent on the leash as pleasant as possible.
It is important to give the puppy plenty of practice in getting used to walking on the leash in the home. It is best to do plenty of work in the home, since it is a safe environment with few distractions. After the puppy is comfortable walking indoors on a leash, it is time to start going outside, beginning of course in a small, enclosed area like a fenced yard.
After the puppy has mastered walking calmly outdoors on a leash, it is time to visit some places where there are more distractions. You may want to start with a place like a neighbor’s yard. Walking your new puppy around the neighborhood is a good way to introduce your neighbors to the new puppy, while giving the puppy valuable experience in avoiding distractions and focusing on his leash training.
Puppies sometimes develop bad habits with their leashes, such as biting or chewing on the leash. To discourage this type of behavior, try applying a little bit of bitter apple, Tabasco sauce or similar substance (just make sure the substance you use is not toxic to dogs). This strategy usually convinces puppies that chewing the leash is a bad idea.
Sweet Dreams In Baby Furniture Land
There are many different kinds of dog trainer collars. How do you know you are choosing the correct one for you and your dog? There are many things to take into consideration, when making this decision. Sometimes knowing how to choose, the right trainer over so many others can be a bit overwhelming. Aren’t they all the same? Actually, many of them may look the same, and some of them even work the same way, but they are all different, to allow a variety for different kinds of dogs.
The most commonly used dog trainer collar is the collar with the remote. This particular collar will stimulate your dog in a safe and humane way to help you train your dog more effectively. The way this one works is to attach a collar to your dog, which is then ready to provide stimulation to your pet, to make him stop misbehaving and irritate him to the point that he stops and listens to your command. After so many times of using this collar and remote system, your dog will listen to you and respect your commands for fear of being irritated with the stimulation. This is a most effective way to train your dog with a collar. The difference in the many remote and collars available can be the range of the remote control, as well as the collar that is needed for your particular dog. This is many times based on the weight of the dog, as to which collar would work better on him.
Another dog trainer collar method that is used would be the one where you would bury a wire in your yard. You would bury this wire wherever you want to keep your dog out of. For instance, if you want to keep your dog in the yard, bury the wire around the perimeter of your lawn, and attach the collar to your dog. Your pet will learn very fast not to cross over the buried wire. When your dog gets close to the wire, a clicking noise will warn your dog about the stimulation that is about to occur. This method is most effective for the dog owner that is not always home to use a remote.
While looking for a dog trainer collar, try choosing the one that is best for you and your dog. You both will be much happier once your misbehaved dog is behaving like he should.
The most commonly used dog trainer collar is the collar with the remote. This particular collar will stimulate your dog in a safe and humane way to help you train your dog more effectively. The way this one works is to attach a collar to your dog, which is then ready to provide stimulation to your pet, to make him stop misbehaving and irritate him to the point that he stops and listens to your command. After so many times of using this collar and remote system, your dog will listen to you and respect your commands for fear of being irritated with the stimulation. This is a most effective way to train your dog with a collar. The difference in the many remote and collars available can be the range of the remote control, as well as the collar that is needed for your particular dog. This is many times based on the weight of the dog, as to which collar would work better on him.
Another dog trainer collar method that is used would be the one where you would bury a wire in your yard. You would bury this wire wherever you want to keep your dog out of. For instance, if you want to keep your dog in the yard, bury the wire around the perimeter of your lawn, and attach the collar to your dog. Your pet will learn very fast not to cross over the buried wire. When your dog gets close to the wire, a clicking noise will warn your dog about the stimulation that is about to occur. This method is most effective for the dog owner that is not always home to use a remote.
While looking for a dog trainer collar, try choosing the one that is best for you and your dog. You both will be much happier once your misbehaved dog is behaving like he should.
Training Your Dog Using A Petsafe Electric Dog Fence Week 1
It is important to have as little disruption as possible during your pets’ training sessions.
During the training process it is VERY IMPORTANT that you do not let your dog run off lead in the yard with or without wearing the dog fence collar. If you do, it will confuse him and you may have to re-start the entire electronic dog fence training process. It would be best to keep him on a leash during the first week. But, never walk your pet over the boundary line on a leash. This may confuse him in the beginning. Eventually, you will be able to take him with you over the boundary on a leash – this is called “Doorway Training” and we will talk about this later. But for now, if he needs to leave the yard, place him in the car, or carry him well over to the other side of the signal field. Don’t forget to REMOVE HIS ELECTRIC DOG FENCE COLLAR before taking him from the yard by either of these two options, or he will get corrected as he leaves.
To allow your dog to become accustomed to the collar probes on his neck remove the collar after each training session during the first week. After that, remove the dog fence collar each night for the next three weeks. Eventually he will be able to wear the dog fence collar all the time, but it may take some time for him to develop a tolerance to the probes on the receiver. Clean both the probes and the dogs neck every evening for the first 30 days.
The training flags are there for two reasons. First, to give your dog a visual boundary and secondly to help you with the training process. The flags should be installed about 12″ to your yard side on the dog fence wire in the ground. All of the flags will remain in the yard for about 30 days.
Remember the PetSafe electric dog fence training should be fun, and not stressful at all. If other family members are assisting in the training sessions, it is vitally important that everyone follows the exact same technique. Make each session short and upbeat (5 to10 minutes max). Many dogs have extremely short attention spans and training can be very tiring for them, so don’t get discouraged if he doesn’t “get it” at first – they will eventually learn.
Days 1 to 3 Place a leash on your dog using a flat collar or a slip collar, Never place the leash directly on the receiver collar. Prior to placing the dog fence collar on your dog, turn the dog fence collar to the lowest power setting. Your dog needs to first be taught how to respond to the flags. Walk with your dog within the containment area of the yard and praise and play with him.
Now, proceed towards the training flags. As your dog head passes the flags, give a quick horizontal or downward “jerk and release” correction on the leash. Bring your dog back about 10 feet into the containment area and praise him. The “jerk and release” is the only negative reinforcement your dog needs. There is no verbal correction needed. The PetSafe dog collar will be giving your dog a warning tone before the very light correction he is getting at the flags. You should tailor the corrections to your pets’ personality, temperament, size and breed.
Each training session should only last about 5 to 10 minutes. Enter the containment area at various places and focus on areas that the family typically would leave the yard ( ie: driveway, sidewalk or path your dog uses now to leave). Soon you should see your dog turn to avoid the flags. This shows that he is learning. Make sure you play with your dog in the containment area to show him time spent in the yard is a pleasant experience. This will prevent your dog from becoming timid or afraid going into the yard.
Remember, keep him on a leash during this first week, even to go outside to the bathroom. Some dogs will “pick up” the training faster than others. Before proceeding to Phase 2, be sure that your dog is happy to run and play in the yard, generally avoiding the flags. If not, spend an extra day or two flag training. Training is simply following the building blocks – you cannot proceed to Phase 2 without first completing the flag training.
During the training process it is VERY IMPORTANT that you do not let your dog run off lead in the yard with or without wearing the dog fence collar. If you do, it will confuse him and you may have to re-start the entire electronic dog fence training process. It would be best to keep him on a leash during the first week. But, never walk your pet over the boundary line on a leash. This may confuse him in the beginning. Eventually, you will be able to take him with you over the boundary on a leash – this is called “Doorway Training” and we will talk about this later. But for now, if he needs to leave the yard, place him in the car, or carry him well over to the other side of the signal field. Don’t forget to REMOVE HIS ELECTRIC DOG FENCE COLLAR before taking him from the yard by either of these two options, or he will get corrected as he leaves.
To allow your dog to become accustomed to the collar probes on his neck remove the collar after each training session during the first week. After that, remove the dog fence collar each night for the next three weeks. Eventually he will be able to wear the dog fence collar all the time, but it may take some time for him to develop a tolerance to the probes on the receiver. Clean both the probes and the dogs neck every evening for the first 30 days.
The training flags are there for two reasons. First, to give your dog a visual boundary and secondly to help you with the training process. The flags should be installed about 12″ to your yard side on the dog fence wire in the ground. All of the flags will remain in the yard for about 30 days.
Remember the PetSafe electric dog fence training should be fun, and not stressful at all. If other family members are assisting in the training sessions, it is vitally important that everyone follows the exact same technique. Make each session short and upbeat (5 to10 minutes max). Many dogs have extremely short attention spans and training can be very tiring for them, so don’t get discouraged if he doesn’t “get it” at first – they will eventually learn.
Days 1 to 3 Place a leash on your dog using a flat collar or a slip collar, Never place the leash directly on the receiver collar. Prior to placing the dog fence collar on your dog, turn the dog fence collar to the lowest power setting. Your dog needs to first be taught how to respond to the flags. Walk with your dog within the containment area of the yard and praise and play with him.
Now, proceed towards the training flags. As your dog head passes the flags, give a quick horizontal or downward “jerk and release” correction on the leash. Bring your dog back about 10 feet into the containment area and praise him. The “jerk and release” is the only negative reinforcement your dog needs. There is no verbal correction needed. The PetSafe dog collar will be giving your dog a warning tone before the very light correction he is getting at the flags. You should tailor the corrections to your pets’ personality, temperament, size and breed.
Each training session should only last about 5 to 10 minutes. Enter the containment area at various places and focus on areas that the family typically would leave the yard ( ie: driveway, sidewalk or path your dog uses now to leave). Soon you should see your dog turn to avoid the flags. This shows that he is learning. Make sure you play with your dog in the containment area to show him time spent in the yard is a pleasant experience. This will prevent your dog from becoming timid or afraid going into the yard.
Remember, keep him on a leash during this first week, even to go outside to the bathroom. Some dogs will “pick up” the training faster than others. Before proceeding to Phase 2, be sure that your dog is happy to run and play in the yard, generally avoiding the flags. If not, spend an extra day or two flag training. Training is simply following the building blocks – you cannot proceed to Phase 2 without first completing the flag training.
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