Dog Fleas & Ticks.
Fleas.
Dog fleas are different to those which infest humans and cats. When a flea bites, it injects saliva to stop the blood clotting whilst it sucks it up. The saliva contains chemicals which often cause an allergic reaction in the dog.
The signs are :-
Bites which look like small red pimples. Black, gritty material in the coat, and areas of inflammation on the animals back. Scratching.
What is the treatment ?
Spring-clean the house and treat the dog’s favorite places with a suitable insecticidal spray. Flea tablets or collars are a good extra precaution, and spray badly affected animals frequently with insecticide during the summer months. (the flea season) Ticks The common tick seen on dogs is the sheep tick. this has a large abdomen that stretches as it fills with blood. It hangs on to the dog’s hair and sticks it’s mouth parts through the skin to suck blood.Ticks are usually found on the underside of the dog, under the forelegs and on the head.
What is the treatment ?
Try to remove every tick when you see it. It is important to extract the head, otherwise an abscess may form. If the head is left in, warm compresses help draw out the infection, combined with antibacterial washes and creams.
Removing a tick.
A good method is to get the tick’s head to relax or die by dabbing it with alcohol. Wait a couple of minutes, then use fine-pointed tweezers to extract the tick. Grasp it near the mouth parts, and give it a sharp jerk. This should dislodge it.
Alternatively, flea sprays can be used locally on ticks. The tick will then die and can be removed the following day. Regular use of a flea spray in tick areas often keeps them away.
When my own dogs have suffered with ticks or fleas in the past, I’ve always managed to deal with them myself, but if you’ve any concerns at all with your own dog, then consult your vet as a precaution.
Showing posts with label head. Show all posts
Showing posts with label head. Show all posts
What Is A Shih Tzu Standard
The Shih Tzu is a toy dog of small stature and enormous heart. This lovable little dog is often a spoilt member of the family; if you own a Shih Tzu you will understand the love their owners feel for their!
If you want to show off your beautiful, purebred Shih Tzu at competitions on any level then you will need to familiarize yourself with the standards and requirements.
The American Kennel Club has clearly defined guidelines when it comes to what kinds of physical attributes your Shih Tzu will need to exhibit.
If you want to show, breed or are just interested in learning about the Shih Tzu Breed then here are some things you can do. Ask your breeder, your Vet, use the Internet and learn everything you can about Shih Tzu’s.
The breed specifications are long and detailed for the Shih Tzu to account for many of the variations.
Summary of general breed specifications:
Overall Appearance:
The Shih Tzu is sturdy and lively with a long flowing double coat. A proud bearing and a distinctively arrogant manner with the head generally carried well up and a curved tail which rests on the back.
There is a great variation on the size of the Shih Tzu but the dog must carry a good weight and give an overall impression of a compact, solid and well built dog.
Size, Proportion, Substance
The ideal weight for adult dogs is anywhere within the range of 9 to 16 pounds. The highest point of the back (known as the withers) should be not less than 8 inches. The ideal Shih Tzu should be well proportioned. The length between the withers and the root of the tail is slightly longer than the height at the withers. The dog may not appear to be ‘leggy’ or conversely may not appear dumpy or squatty. Substance – Regardless of size, the Shih Tzu is compact solid
Head
The head should be round, broad, with a wide space between eyes. The head must appear to be in balance with the overall size of the dog. The Shih Tzu should have a warm, sweet, wide-eyed, friendly and trusting. AN overall well-balanced, pleasant _expression is the most important aspect of the features of the head.
The judges carefully examine beyond the hair to determine if what is seen is the actually head and shape or if careful grooming has been used to cover faults.
Faults
- Narrow Head
- Close-set eyes
- Small, close-set or light eyes
- Excessive eye white
- Snippiness
- Lack of definite stop
- Pink on nose, lips or eye rims
- Overshot bite
Competing with your Shih Tzu
Of course if you want to show your Shih Tzu you will need to read as much as possible on the subject. Read everything you can and discuss
The breed standards can differ from country to country and also even within various breed organizations. Generally you can be sure that even between different judges there are limits as to what is consider a variant and what is considered to be a fault. Interpretation varies as do judges tastes.
The Shih Tzu standard is made up with fanciers, breeder’s nation wide. If you do not plan to show your Shih Tzu then just about any puppy will do. These are some good guidelines in what to look for but being exact is not necessary. If you have found the cutest, healthiest little puppy then that is all your family will need.
If you want to show off your beautiful, purebred Shih Tzu at competitions on any level then you will need to familiarize yourself with the standards and requirements.
The American Kennel Club has clearly defined guidelines when it comes to what kinds of physical attributes your Shih Tzu will need to exhibit.
If you want to show, breed or are just interested in learning about the Shih Tzu Breed then here are some things you can do. Ask your breeder, your Vet, use the Internet and learn everything you can about Shih Tzu’s.
The breed specifications are long and detailed for the Shih Tzu to account for many of the variations.
Summary of general breed specifications:
Overall Appearance:
The Shih Tzu is sturdy and lively with a long flowing double coat. A proud bearing and a distinctively arrogant manner with the head generally carried well up and a curved tail which rests on the back.
There is a great variation on the size of the Shih Tzu but the dog must carry a good weight and give an overall impression of a compact, solid and well built dog.
Size, Proportion, Substance
The ideal weight for adult dogs is anywhere within the range of 9 to 16 pounds. The highest point of the back (known as the withers) should be not less than 8 inches. The ideal Shih Tzu should be well proportioned. The length between the withers and the root of the tail is slightly longer than the height at the withers. The dog may not appear to be ‘leggy’ or conversely may not appear dumpy or squatty. Substance – Regardless of size, the Shih Tzu is compact solid
Head
The head should be round, broad, with a wide space between eyes. The head must appear to be in balance with the overall size of the dog. The Shih Tzu should have a warm, sweet, wide-eyed, friendly and trusting. AN overall well-balanced, pleasant _expression is the most important aspect of the features of the head.
The judges carefully examine beyond the hair to determine if what is seen is the actually head and shape or if careful grooming has been used to cover faults.
Faults
- Narrow Head
- Close-set eyes
- Small, close-set or light eyes
- Excessive eye white
- Snippiness
- Lack of definite stop
- Pink on nose, lips or eye rims
- Overshot bite
Competing with your Shih Tzu
Of course if you want to show your Shih Tzu you will need to read as much as possible on the subject. Read everything you can and discuss
The breed standards can differ from country to country and also even within various breed organizations. Generally you can be sure that even between different judges there are limits as to what is consider a variant and what is considered to be a fault. Interpretation varies as do judges tastes.
The Shih Tzu standard is made up with fanciers, breeder’s nation wide. If you do not plan to show your Shih Tzu then just about any puppy will do. These are some good guidelines in what to look for but being exact is not necessary. If you have found the cutest, healthiest little puppy then that is all your family will need.
The Decorative Deerhound
The Deerhound is one of the most decorative of dogs, impressively stately and picturesque wherever he is seen, whether it be amid the surroundings of the baronial hall, reclining at luxurious length before the open hearth in the fitful light of the log fire that flickers on polished armour and tarnished tapestry; out in the open, straining at the leash as he scents the dewy air, or gracefully bounding over the purple of his native hills. Grace and majesty are in his every movement and attitude, and even to the most prosaic mind there is about him the inseparable glamour of feudal romance and poetry.
From remote days the Scottish nobles cherished their strains of Deerhound, seeking glorious sport in the Highland forests. The red deer belonged by inexorable law to the kings of Scotland, and great drives, which often lasted for several days, were made to round up the herds into given neighbourhoods for the pleasure of the court, as in the reign of Queen Mary. But the organised coursing of deer by courtiers ceased during the Stuart troubles, and was left in the hands of retainers, who thus replenished their chief’s larder.
Head:-
The head should be broadest at the ears, tapering slightly to the eyes, with the muzzle tapering more decidedly to the nose. The muzzle should be pointed, but the teeth and lips level. The head should be long, the skull flat rather than round, with a very slight rise over the eyes, but with nothing approaching a stop. The skull should be coated with moderately long hair which is softer than the rest of the coat. The nose should be black (though in some blue-fawns the colour is blue) and slightly aquiline. In the lighter-coloured dogs a black muzzle is preferred. There should be a good moustache of rather silky hair, and a fair beard.
Ears:-
The ears should be set on high, and, in repose, folded back like the Greyhound’s, though raised above the head in excitement without losing the fold, and even, in some cases, semi-erect.The ear should be soft, glossy, and like a mouse’s coat to the touch, and the smaller it is the better. It should have no long coat or long fringe, but there is often a silky, silvery coat on the body of the ear and the tip. Whatever the general colour, the ears should be black or dark-coloured.
Neck and shoulders:-
The neck should be long that is, of the length that befits the Greyhound character of the dog. The nape of the neck should be very prominent where the head is set on, and the throat should be clean-cut at the angle and prominent. The shoulders should be well sloped, the blades well back, with not too much width between them.
Stern:-
Stern should be tolerably long, tapering, and reaching to within 1-1/2 inches of the ground, and about 1-1/2 inches below the hocks. When the dog is still, dropped perfectly straight down, or curved. When in motion it should be curved when excited, in no case to be lifted out of the line of the back. It should be well covered with hair, on the inside thick and wiry, underside longer.
Eyes:-
The eyes should be dark: generally they are dark brown or hazel. The eye is moderately full with a soft look in repose, but a keen, far-away gaze when the dog is roused. The rims of the eyelids should be black.
Body: The body and general formation is that of a Greyhound of larger size and bone. Chest deep rather than broad, but not too narrow and flat-sided. The loin well arched and drooping to the tail.
Legs and feet:-
The legs should be broad and flat, a good broad forearm and elbow being desirable. Fore-legs, of course, as straight as possible. Feet close and compact, with well-arched toes. The hind-quarters drooping, and as broad and powerful as possible, the hips being set wide apart. The hind-legs should be well bent at the stifle, with great length from the hip to the hock, which should be broad and flat.
Coat:-
The hair on the body, neck, and quarters should be harsh and wiry, and about 3 inches or 4 inches long; that on the head, breast, and belly is much softer. There should be a slight hairy fringe on the inside of the fore and hind-legs, but nothing approaching to the feathering of a Collie. The Deerhound should be a shaggy dog, but not over coated.
Colour:-
Colour is much a matter of fancy. But there is no manner of doubt that the dark blue-grey is the most preferred. Next come the darker and lighter greys or brindles, the darkest being generally preferred. Yellow and sandy-red or red-fawn, especially with black points i.e., ears and muzzle are also in equal estimation.
Height:-
From 28 inches to 30 inches, or even more if there be symmetry without coarseness, which, however, is rare. Height of bitches: From 26 inches upwards. There can be no objection to a bitch being large, unless she is too coarse, as even at her greatest height she does not approach that of the dog, and, therefore, could not well be too big for work, as over-big dogs are.
From remote days the Scottish nobles cherished their strains of Deerhound, seeking glorious sport in the Highland forests. The red deer belonged by inexorable law to the kings of Scotland, and great drives, which often lasted for several days, were made to round up the herds into given neighbourhoods for the pleasure of the court, as in the reign of Queen Mary. But the organised coursing of deer by courtiers ceased during the Stuart troubles, and was left in the hands of retainers, who thus replenished their chief’s larder.
Head:-
The head should be broadest at the ears, tapering slightly to the eyes, with the muzzle tapering more decidedly to the nose. The muzzle should be pointed, but the teeth and lips level. The head should be long, the skull flat rather than round, with a very slight rise over the eyes, but with nothing approaching a stop. The skull should be coated with moderately long hair which is softer than the rest of the coat. The nose should be black (though in some blue-fawns the colour is blue) and slightly aquiline. In the lighter-coloured dogs a black muzzle is preferred. There should be a good moustache of rather silky hair, and a fair beard.
Ears:-
The ears should be set on high, and, in repose, folded back like the Greyhound’s, though raised above the head in excitement without losing the fold, and even, in some cases, semi-erect.The ear should be soft, glossy, and like a mouse’s coat to the touch, and the smaller it is the better. It should have no long coat or long fringe, but there is often a silky, silvery coat on the body of the ear and the tip. Whatever the general colour, the ears should be black or dark-coloured.
Neck and shoulders:-
The neck should be long that is, of the length that befits the Greyhound character of the dog. The nape of the neck should be very prominent where the head is set on, and the throat should be clean-cut at the angle and prominent. The shoulders should be well sloped, the blades well back, with not too much width between them.
Stern:-
Stern should be tolerably long, tapering, and reaching to within 1-1/2 inches of the ground, and about 1-1/2 inches below the hocks. When the dog is still, dropped perfectly straight down, or curved. When in motion it should be curved when excited, in no case to be lifted out of the line of the back. It should be well covered with hair, on the inside thick and wiry, underside longer.
Eyes:-
The eyes should be dark: generally they are dark brown or hazel. The eye is moderately full with a soft look in repose, but a keen, far-away gaze when the dog is roused. The rims of the eyelids should be black.
Body: The body and general formation is that of a Greyhound of larger size and bone. Chest deep rather than broad, but not too narrow and flat-sided. The loin well arched and drooping to the tail.
Legs and feet:-
The legs should be broad and flat, a good broad forearm and elbow being desirable. Fore-legs, of course, as straight as possible. Feet close and compact, with well-arched toes. The hind-quarters drooping, and as broad and powerful as possible, the hips being set wide apart. The hind-legs should be well bent at the stifle, with great length from the hip to the hock, which should be broad and flat.
Coat:-
The hair on the body, neck, and quarters should be harsh and wiry, and about 3 inches or 4 inches long; that on the head, breast, and belly is much softer. There should be a slight hairy fringe on the inside of the fore and hind-legs, but nothing approaching to the feathering of a Collie. The Deerhound should be a shaggy dog, but not over coated.
Colour:-
Colour is much a matter of fancy. But there is no manner of doubt that the dark blue-grey is the most preferred. Next come the darker and lighter greys or brindles, the darkest being generally preferred. Yellow and sandy-red or red-fawn, especially with black points i.e., ears and muzzle are also in equal estimation.
Height:-
From 28 inches to 30 inches, or even more if there be symmetry without coarseness, which, however, is rare. Height of bitches: From 26 inches upwards. There can be no objection to a bitch being large, unless she is too coarse, as even at her greatest height she does not approach that of the dog, and, therefore, could not well be too big for work, as over-big dogs are.
The Decorative Deerhound
The Deerhound is one of the most decorative of dogs, impressively stately and picturesque wherever he is seen, whether it be amid the surroundings of the baronial hall, reclining at luxurious length before the open hearth in the fitful light of the log fire that flickers on polished armour and tarnished tapestry; out in the open, straining at the leash as he scents the dewy air, or gracefully bounding over the purple of his native hills. Grace and majesty are in his every movement and attitude, and even to the most prosaic mind there is about him the inseparable glamour of feudal romance and poetry.
From remote days the Scottish nobles cherished their strains of Deerhound, seeking glorious sport in the Highland forests. The red deer belonged by inexorable law to the kings of Scotland, and great drives, which often lasted for several days, were made to round up the herds into given neighbourhoods for the pleasure of the court, as in the reign of Queen Mary. But the organised coursing of deer by courtiers ceased during the Stuart troubles, and was left in the hands of retainers, who thus replenished their chief’s larder.
Head:-
The head should be broadest at the ears, tapering slightly to the eyes, with the muzzle tapering more decidedly to the nose. The muzzle should be pointed, but the teeth and lips level. The head should be long, the skull flat rather than round, with a very slight rise over the eyes, but with nothing approaching a stop. The skull should be coated with moderately long hair which is softer than the rest of the coat. The nose should be black (though in some blue-fawns the colour is blue) and slightly aquiline. In the lighter-coloured dogs a black muzzle is preferred. There should be a good moustache of rather silky hair, and a fair beard.
Ears:-
The ears should be set on high, and, in repose, folded back like the Greyhound’s, though raised above the head in excitement without losing the fold, and even, in some cases, semi-erect.The ear should be soft, glossy, and like a mouse’s coat to the touch, and the smaller it is the better. It should have no long coat or long fringe, but there is often a silky, silvery coat on the body of the ear and the tip. Whatever the general colour, the ears should be black or dark-coloured.
Neck and shoulders:-
The neck should be long that is, of the length that befits the Greyhound character of the dog. The nape of the neck should be very prominent where the head is set on, and the throat should be clean-cut at the angle and prominent. The shoulders should be well sloped, the blades well back, with not too much width between them.
Stern:-
Stern should be tolerably long, tapering, and reaching to within 1-1/2 inches of the ground, and about 1-1/2 inches below the hocks. When the dog is still, dropped perfectly straight down, or curved. When in motion it should be curved when excited, in no case to be lifted out of the line of the back. It should be well covered with hair, on the inside thick and wiry, underside longer.
Eyes:-
The eyes should be dark: generally they are dark brown or hazel. The eye is moderately full with a soft look in repose, but a keen, far-away gaze when the dog is roused. The rims of the eyelids should be black.
Body: The body and general formation is that of a Greyhound of larger size and bone. Chest deep rather than broad, but not too narrow and flat-sided. The loin well arched and drooping to the tail.
Legs and feet:-
The legs should be broad and flat, a good broad forearm and elbow being desirable. Fore-legs, of course, as straight as possible. Feet close and compact, with well-arched toes. The hind-quarters drooping, and as broad and powerful as possible, the hips being set wide apart. The hind-legs should be well bent at the stifle, with great length from the hip to the hock, which should be broad and flat.
Coat:-
The hair on the body, neck, and quarters should be harsh and wiry, and about 3 inches or 4 inches long; that on the head, breast, and belly is much softer. There should be a slight hairy fringe on the inside of the fore and hind-legs, but nothing approaching to the feathering of a Collie. The Deerhound should be a shaggy dog, but not over coated.
Colour:-
Colour is much a matter of fancy. But there is no manner of doubt that the dark blue-grey is the most preferred. Next come the darker and lighter greys or brindles, the darkest being generally preferred. Yellow and sandy-red or red-fawn, especially with black points i.e., ears and muzzle are also in equal estimation.
Height:-
From 28 inches to 30 inches, or even more if there be symmetry without coarseness, which, however, is rare. Height of bitches: From 26 inches upwards. There can be no objection to a bitch being large, unless she is too coarse, as even at her greatest height she does not approach that of the dog, and, therefore, could not well be too big for work, as over-big dogs are.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)