Is your dog’s barking getting out of control? Does the barking get worse when you leave your home? Are your neighbors at their wit’s end? Are you contemplating getting rid of your dog? Bark collars can stop barking dogs quickly, easily, and humanely. When used properly, the electronic bark collar can stop your dog’s barking completely within a matter of few days. If all else fails, however, surgery might be a reasonable alternative.
Most electronic bark control collars employ sound as the basic stimulus because it is well established that animals learn more quickly and retain a better memory when the desired behavior is associated with a sound. The more advanced models progressively increase the sonic stimulus as barking persists. Some models employ gradually increasing electric shock stimulus along with the sound to stop even the most stubborn barkers in a humane manner.
The more sophisticated electronic bark collars sense the vibrations in a dog’s throat that happen only during barking. By doing so, they prevent false corrections from other loud noises and from other dogs barking.
The drawback with some “barking dog collars” is that they may detect barking with a microphone and activate on sound; these can be set off by other noises or by another dog’s bark. Some Barking Dog Collars use only vibration; these can be set off by motion or jostling.
Stay away from the following types of bark collars:
1) Bark Dog Collars the project a spray mist which startles and confuses the dog’s olfactory senses, causing him to stop barking. These mists may cause allergic reactions and hypersensitivity in your dog.
2) Independent devices that have a built-in microphone tuned to the sound of your dog’s bark. They emit a loud correction to startle the dog so he stops barking. They automatically stop and reset themselves after each auditory correction. The dog feels no correction with this type of bark stopper and can simply move away to another location further from the receiver and completely avoid the sound all together.
Look for a barking dog collar with the following features:
1) One that simultaneously senses both sound and vibration, and only uses a combination of sound and vibration to trigger the electronic correction. By having both of these features, the electronic bark collar will be activated only by the dog wearing the collar, so there won’t be any “false corrections” caused by loud noises or other dogs barking.
2) One that automatically adjusts the level of static correction to your dog’s temperament with different levels of self-adjustable corrections in response to the bark intensity of your dog. The more intensity settings will help to accommodate the most sensitive too the most stubborn dogs.
3) One that provides a warning beep with the first bark.
4) One with a rechargeable battery, which features a low battery indicator light.
5) One that features a quickfit buckle that provides a quick release.
6) One that is durable, light weight, waterproof, and adjustable.
7) One that comes with a complete operating guide and a video tape demonstration.
In some extreme cases, however, an electronic bark collar may fail to produce results. If your dog happens to exemplify such a case, then a surgical procedure called “De-barking” might provide you with a suitable alternative. The surgery is fairly simple to perform and your dog’s barking will be replaced with “squealing” sounds. The surgery will not affect your dog physically or psychologically as it will not make any difference to your dog whether it squeals or barks. However, there are several drawbacks to surgery. First, the procedure is irreversible; and second, your dog won’t be able to alert you to intruders. If you are at your wit’s end, when you have exhausted all others means, when you can no longer face your angry neighbors, then surgery might be the best alternative to giving your dog away.
Showing posts with label bark. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bark. Show all posts
The Top 3 Canine Behavior Problems And How To Solve Them Part 1
A Word about Dogs, and One of the Top 3 Canine Behavior Problems; Excessive Barking
Dogs are wonderful; just ask any one of the millions of canine owners world-wide. They make terrific companions, are loving, loyal, protective, entertaining, and obedient. Well, most of the time anyway.
As with humans, no dog is perfect – including my treasured poodle, Muffy. She is wonderfully calm and composed, especially considering her breed type. And she has been my best friend for nearly 14 years. Nevertheless, she has her faults. We all do.
That aside, it is important for new dog owners to understand the differences between dogs and humans. Recognizing the differences will help owners balance expectations and keep them realistic.
Some behavior is ingrained; inborn and common to the canine population. Their ways are not our ways. We cannot punish a dog for being a dog. It would be unrealistic, for instance, to expect a dog not to be inquisitive; not to sniff, not to defend its territory, or not to explore and “cut loose” in an open field. People who cannot accept normal dog behavior should not own a dog.
Other behaviors in dogs are learned – due either to past experience, or neglect on the human’s part. Case in point: a mother dog does not hesitate to teach her puppies acceptable social skills and proper manners. She will correct and discipline a pup when they need it.
We humans, however, take a puppy away from its disciplinarian – its mother – and adopt it into our home. When the puppy bites, nips at our hands, or chews on things that they shouldn’t, we hesitate to discipline him. Either because we think he is too small for discipline, or else too darn cute! It is only after the puppy gets older and a bad behavior pattern has set in that we decide something must be done.
When it comes to problematic canine behavior problems, three are most predominant: excessive barking, biting, and jumping up on people. In this 3-part canine behavior and modification training informational, we will address each behavior problem individually.
Excessive Barking
Dogs can bark excessively for different reasons: boredom, loneliness, and defying being left alone are among the top reasons.
You have some control over your dog’s boredom and loneliness. Besides providing warm shelter, adequate food, and an adequate supply of clean water, both dogs and puppies require entertainment and exercise to be happy and relieve boredom.
Playthings and chew toys made for dogs help to keep a dog entertained. Spending time with your dog playing and exercising him is also important. A happy, content dog is less apt to bark excessively.
When it comes to having to be left alone, however, your dog must learn to accept being alone without causing a ruckus. There is little more annoying to neighbors than being forced to listen to someone else’s dog bark nonstop.
If a dog barks excessively for no good reason, well-known dog obedience instructor and author, Jerry Climer, suggests that you walk up to him and close your hand around his muzzle; forcefully, but not enough to cause pain. Hold his mouth closed and command “Quiet!” If he tries to break away, be more firm and forceful. Hold his mouth shut and snap your finger sharply across his nose, commanding again “Quiet!” Once he has stopped the excessive barking and is silent, praise him.
When training a young puppy not to bark, place a short rope on his collar and let him drag it around the house. When he barks to alert you, let him bark once or twice, and tell him he’s a good dog. Then use the command “Quiet!” in a firm tone, while at the same time giving his rope a little jerk to startle him. Insist that he stop the noise immediately, and praise him the minute he becomes quiet.
Whether training a grown dog or a young puppy, discipline must be consistent in order to be effective. After the lesson has been learned, commanding “Quiet!” will be enough to bring peaceful silence.
We at Savvy Dog Lover care about you and your pet. In part 2 of this 3-part instructional we will discuss the problem of biting. Read part two, “How to Control the Canine Behavior Problem of Biting
Dogs are wonderful; just ask any one of the millions of canine owners world-wide. They make terrific companions, are loving, loyal, protective, entertaining, and obedient. Well, most of the time anyway.
As with humans, no dog is perfect – including my treasured poodle, Muffy. She is wonderfully calm and composed, especially considering her breed type. And she has been my best friend for nearly 14 years. Nevertheless, she has her faults. We all do.
That aside, it is important for new dog owners to understand the differences between dogs and humans. Recognizing the differences will help owners balance expectations and keep them realistic.
Some behavior is ingrained; inborn and common to the canine population. Their ways are not our ways. We cannot punish a dog for being a dog. It would be unrealistic, for instance, to expect a dog not to be inquisitive; not to sniff, not to defend its territory, or not to explore and “cut loose” in an open field. People who cannot accept normal dog behavior should not own a dog.
Other behaviors in dogs are learned – due either to past experience, or neglect on the human’s part. Case in point: a mother dog does not hesitate to teach her puppies acceptable social skills and proper manners. She will correct and discipline a pup when they need it.
We humans, however, take a puppy away from its disciplinarian – its mother – and adopt it into our home. When the puppy bites, nips at our hands, or chews on things that they shouldn’t, we hesitate to discipline him. Either because we think he is too small for discipline, or else too darn cute! It is only after the puppy gets older and a bad behavior pattern has set in that we decide something must be done.
When it comes to problematic canine behavior problems, three are most predominant: excessive barking, biting, and jumping up on people. In this 3-part canine behavior and modification training informational, we will address each behavior problem individually.
Excessive Barking
Dogs can bark excessively for different reasons: boredom, loneliness, and defying being left alone are among the top reasons.
You have some control over your dog’s boredom and loneliness. Besides providing warm shelter, adequate food, and an adequate supply of clean water, both dogs and puppies require entertainment and exercise to be happy and relieve boredom.
Playthings and chew toys made for dogs help to keep a dog entertained. Spending time with your dog playing and exercising him is also important. A happy, content dog is less apt to bark excessively.
When it comes to having to be left alone, however, your dog must learn to accept being alone without causing a ruckus. There is little more annoying to neighbors than being forced to listen to someone else’s dog bark nonstop.
If a dog barks excessively for no good reason, well-known dog obedience instructor and author, Jerry Climer, suggests that you walk up to him and close your hand around his muzzle; forcefully, but not enough to cause pain. Hold his mouth closed and command “Quiet!” If he tries to break away, be more firm and forceful. Hold his mouth shut and snap your finger sharply across his nose, commanding again “Quiet!” Once he has stopped the excessive barking and is silent, praise him.
When training a young puppy not to bark, place a short rope on his collar and let him drag it around the house. When he barks to alert you, let him bark once or twice, and tell him he’s a good dog. Then use the command “Quiet!” in a firm tone, while at the same time giving his rope a little jerk to startle him. Insist that he stop the noise immediately, and praise him the minute he becomes quiet.
Whether training a grown dog or a young puppy, discipline must be consistent in order to be effective. After the lesson has been learned, commanding “Quiet!” will be enough to bring peaceful silence.
We at Savvy Dog Lover care about you and your pet. In part 2 of this 3-part instructional we will discuss the problem of biting. Read part two, “How to Control the Canine Behavior Problem of Biting
Self Defence 5 Protect Yourself And Your Dog
We read so much about pet owners being attacked, raped and murdered when walking their dog in the park or wherever..
Now, rightly or wrongly, I consider my first duty is to Tyson, my dog.
1. I make sure his collar is such that I can slide it off in an instant, freeing him and making it difficult for (my) attacker, mugger or would-be rapist to catch hold and hurt him.
2. He is trained to “Bark” on command, to draw attention if we are trouble. The last thing an attacker wants is publicity: so the more noise the better. Every time I walk him, I train him with (small) dog biscuits to bark instantly and loudly. He doesn’t need to bite, just bark. I don’t want him stabbed.
Being very world-untrusting, I always have some means of protecting him [and myself!] in the event of being under threat.
3. Firstly, his lead has a fairly heavy clasp, such that it can be slashed through an attacker’s face or eye. At the first sign of danger release your dog and wrap the lead around your hand with the clasp hanging down for about 30 inches just behind your buttock. As he closes, slash the clasp through his face, and slash back again most rapidly and violently, causing him some inconvenience! This is somewhat similar to the martial art manrikigusari-jutsu, using a chain in self defence.
4. But personally I always have a second effective weapon with me – a six inch long dog’s chew tucked in my belt. The martial arts system yawara-jutsu uses a short stick to stab into eyes, mouth, hand or wherever. This hard chew makes for an excellent yawara-stick. Most effective and – perfectly legal! You cannot be accused (by the would-be rapist) that you used a martial arts weapon to beat him up! [Although you actually have!]
5. But above all – Be Aware! Don’t be where Danger might be! Always carry that long strong dog chew!
Now, rightly or wrongly, I consider my first duty is to Tyson, my dog.
1. I make sure his collar is such that I can slide it off in an instant, freeing him and making it difficult for (my) attacker, mugger or would-be rapist to catch hold and hurt him.
2. He is trained to “Bark” on command, to draw attention if we are trouble. The last thing an attacker wants is publicity: so the more noise the better. Every time I walk him, I train him with (small) dog biscuits to bark instantly and loudly. He doesn’t need to bite, just bark. I don’t want him stabbed.
Being very world-untrusting, I always have some means of protecting him [and myself!] in the event of being under threat.
3. Firstly, his lead has a fairly heavy clasp, such that it can be slashed through an attacker’s face or eye. At the first sign of danger release your dog and wrap the lead around your hand with the clasp hanging down for about 30 inches just behind your buttock. As he closes, slash the clasp through his face, and slash back again most rapidly and violently, causing him some inconvenience! This is somewhat similar to the martial art manrikigusari-jutsu, using a chain in self defence.
4. But personally I always have a second effective weapon with me – a six inch long dog’s chew tucked in my belt. The martial arts system yawara-jutsu uses a short stick to stab into eyes, mouth, hand or wherever. This hard chew makes for an excellent yawara-stick. Most effective and – perfectly legal! You cannot be accused (by the would-be rapist) that you used a martial arts weapon to beat him up! [Although you actually have!]
5. But above all – Be Aware! Don’t be where Danger might be! Always carry that long strong dog chew!
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